Cannabis Training Techniques for Bigger Yields

🔧 Table of Contents

📂 Key Takeaways

🔍 Introduction: Why Train Cannabis Plants

Cannabis plants naturally grow with a single dominant main cola (apical dominance). While this growth pattern works in nature, it’s not optimal for indoor cultivation where artificial lighting has limited penetration. The main cola receives most of the light while lower branches remain shaded, producing small, underdeveloped buds (popcorn buds).

Plant training techniques manipulate plant structure to create an even canopy where multiple bud sites receive equal light exposure. This dramatically increases yields by converting energy that would go to vegetative growth into bud production. Training also allows growers to control plant size and shape, making better use of limited grow space.

The benefits of training include increased yields (20-40% more), better light distribution, improved air circulation, more uniform bud development, better use of grow space, and easier plant management. Training requires time and effort during vegetative growth, but the yield increases far outweigh the investment.

This comprehensive guide covers all major training techniques from basic LST to advanced mainlining. You’ll learn when to use each technique, how to perform them correctly, and how to combine multiple methods for maximum yields. Whether you’re a beginner or experienced grower, mastering these techniques will significantly improve your harvests.

For optimal growing conditions that support vigorous growth and fast recovery, see our guides on LED Grow Lights, Cannabis Nutrients, and Climate Control.

🌱 Understanding Plant Training

Before diving into specific techniques, it’s important to understand the principles behind plant training and how different methods affect plant growth.

Low-Stress vs High-Stress Training

Plant training techniques fall into two categories based on the stress they cause.

Low-Stress Training (LST):

LST involves bending and tying branches to manipulate plant shape without damaging tissue. Branches are gently bent and secured in desired positions using soft ties. The plant continues growing normally but in a controlled shape.

Advantages: No recovery time needed, minimal stress, can be performed throughout growth, suitable for autoflowers, easy for beginners, low risk of problems.

Disadvantages: Requires ongoing maintenance, takes more time to achieve results, less dramatic changes than HST.

High-Stress Training (HST):

HST intentionally damages plant tissue to redirect growth hormones and create new growth points. Techniques include topping (removing growth tips), super cropping (crushing stems), and FIMing (partial removal of growth tips).

Advantages: Dramatic results, creates multiple main colas, reduces plant height, faster canopy development.

Disadvantages: Requires recovery time (3-7 days), stresses plants, not suitable for autoflowers, requires healthy plants, risk of problems if done incorrectly.

Which to Choose:

Both LST and HST are effective. Many growers combine both—using HST early in vegetative growth to create structure, then LST throughout veg to fine-tune canopy shape. Choose based on your experience level, plant health, and whether you’re growing photoperiod or autoflowering plants.

How Training Increases Yields

Training increases yields through several mechanisms:

Breaking Apical Dominance:

Cannabis plants exhibit strong apical dominance—the main growing tip produces hormones (auxins) that suppress lower branch growth. By removing or bending the main tip, auxins redistribute to lower branches, causing them to grow more vigorously. This creates multiple strong branches instead of one dominant cola.

Maximizing Light Exposure:

Indoor grow lights have limited penetration. Light intensity decreases rapidly with distance following the inverse square law. Buds more than 12-18 inches from lights receive significantly less light and produce smaller yields.

Training creates an even, flat canopy where all bud sites are equidistant from lights. This maximizes light exposure to all buds, resulting in uniform, dense bud development throughout the canopy instead of one large top cola and many small popcorn buds.

Improving Air Circulation:

Trained plants have better air circulation through the canopy. This reduces humidity around buds, decreasing mold and mildew risk. Better airflow also strengthens stems and improves CO2 distribution.

Optimizing Space Usage:

Training allows growers to fill grow space efficiently. Instead of tall, narrow plants with wasted vertical space, trained plants spread horizontally to fill available area. This is particularly important in grow tents with limited height.

Redirecting Energy:

Training redirects plant energy from vegetative growth to bud production. By controlling plant shape and removing unnecessary growth, more energy goes to developing large, dense buds.

When to Train Plants

Timing is critical for successful training.

Seedling Stage (0-2 weeks):

Don’t train seedlings. They’re too fragile and need to establish root systems. Wait until plants have at least 4-6 nodes before beginning training.

Early Vegetative Stage (2-4 weeks):

Begin training when plants have 4-6 nodes and are growing vigorously. This is the ideal time for first topping or FIMing. Plants recover quickly at this stage.

Begin LST when stems are flexible enough to bend without breaking but strong enough to hold shape. Usually around 3-4 weeks from seed.

Mid-Late Vegetative Stage (4-8+ weeks):

Continue training throughout vegetative growth. This is when most training occurs. Plants are vigorous and recover quickly. You can top multiple times, continue LST, perform super cropping, and set up ScrOG screens.

Transition to Flowering (1-2 weeks before flip):

Stop high-stress training 1-2 weeks before switching to flowering. Plants need time to recover before the stress of flowering. Continue LST if needed.

Early Flowering (First 2-3 weeks):

Light LST can continue during the stretch (first 2-3 weeks of flowering) to control height and shape. Perform strategic defoliation and lollipopping during early flowering.

Mid-Late Flowering (Week 3+):

Stop all training. Focus on maintaining optimal conditions for bud development. Don’t stress plants during critical bud development.

Figure 1: Topping technique showing before, immediately after, and 2 weeks post-topping with two new main colas

🏆 Topping

Topping is one of the most popular and effective high-stress training techniques. It involves removing the main growing tip to create two main colas instead of one.

What is Topping

Topping is the process of cutting off the main stem’s growing tip (apical meristem) above a node. This removes the source of auxin hormones that suppress lower branch growth. When the main tip is removed, auxin production stops and the two branches below the cut become new main colas.

The result is a plant with two main colas of equal size instead of one dominant cola. Topping can be repeated on new growth tips to create 4, 8, 16, or more main colas.

Benefits:

• Creates multiple main colas of equal size
• Reduces plant height by eliminating vertical growth
• Increases yields by creating more top-quality bud sites
• Improves light distribution across canopy
• Makes plants bushier and more manageable

Drawbacks:

• Requires 3-7 days recovery time
• Stresses plants
• Not suitable for autoflowers (limited vegetative time)
• Risk of infection if tools aren’t sterile

When to Top

Timing is critical for successful topping.

First Topping:

Top when plants have at least 4-6 nodes and are growing vigorously. This usually occurs 3-4 weeks from seed. The plant should be healthy with no signs of stress, deficiencies, or pests.

Don’t top plants younger than 3 weeks or with fewer than 4 nodes. Young plants may not recover well. Don’t top stressed, sick, or recently transplanted plants.

Subsequent Toppings:

Wait 7-14 days after first topping before topping again. Allow new growth to develop 3-4 nodes before second topping. Most growers top 1-3 times total.

Final Topping:

Perform final topping at least 2 weeks before switching to flowering. Plants need recovery time before flowering stress.

How to Top

Topping is simple but requires clean technique to prevent infection.

Tools:

• Sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears
• Rubbing alcohol for sterilization
• Optional: rooting hormone or aloe vera for cut site

Procedure:

1. Sterilize tools with rubbing alcohol. Clean cuts prevent infection.

2. Identify cut location. Top above the 3rd, 4th, or 5th node depending on desired final height. Higher topping (5th-6th node) creates taller plants. Lower topping (3rd-4th node) creates shorter, bushier plants.

3. Make clean cut. Cut horizontally through the main stem 1/4 inch above the node. Use sharp scissors to make clean cut in one motion. Don’t crush or tear stem.

4. Optional: Apply treatment. Some growers apply rooting hormone, aloe vera, or honey to cut site to promote healing and prevent infection. This is optional—plants heal fine without treatment.

5. Remove cut tip. Dispose of removed growth tip or use it as a clone if desired.

6. Monitor recovery. Growth slows for 1-2 days as plant recovers. New growth from the two branches below the cut should be visible within 3-5 days.

Tips:

• Top in early morning when plants are fully hydrated
• Don’t water immediately before topping (wet tissue is harder to cut cleanly)
• Make clean, decisive cuts—don’t saw or crush stems
• Don’t remove too much growth—just the tip above the node

Topping Recovery and Results

Recovery Timeline:

• Days 1-2: Growth slows or stops. Plant redirects energy to healing cut site.
• Days 3-5: New growth visible from two branches below cut. These become new main colas.
• Days 7-14: Vigorous growth resumes. Two new main colas grow rapidly.
• Weeks 2-4: Plant develops bushy structure with two dominant colas.

Expected Results:

Properly topped plants develop two main colas of equal size. The plant becomes bushier with more lateral branching. Height is reduced by 20-30% compared to untopped plants. Yield increases 20-30% from having two main colas instead of one.

Multiple toppings create even more main colas. Second topping (topping the two new colas) creates four main colas. Third topping creates eight. However, each topping requires recovery time and extends vegetative period.

Troubleshooting:

Slow Recovery: If plant doesn’t show new growth within 7 days, check for stress, deficiencies, or environmental problems. Ensure temperature is 70-80°F, humidity 50-60%, and plant is receiving adequate nutrients and light.

Infection: If cut site turns brown, black, or slimy, infection may be present. Remove infected tissue and treat with hydrogen peroxide solution. Ensure tools are sterile for future cuts.

📂 FIMing

FIMing is a high-stress training technique similar to topping but with different results. FIM stands for “F**k, I Missed” because the technique was discovered by accident when a grower failed to top properly.

What is FIMing

FIMing involves removing 75-80% of the newest growth tip, leaving 20-25% intact. Unlike topping which creates two new colas, FIMing creates 3-4 (sometimes more) new growth points from a single cut.

The technique works by partially removing the apical meristem while leaving some growth tissue intact. This confuses the plant’s hormone distribution, causing multiple growth points to develop instead of just two.

Benefits:

• Creates 3-4+ new growth points from one cut
• Less stressful than topping (more tissue remains)
• Faster recovery than topping
• Creates bushier plants
• Good for creating many bud sites quickly

Drawbacks:

• Less predictable results than topping (may get 2-6 new growth points)
• Requires precise cutting
• Can create uneven growth if done incorrectly
• Not suitable for autoflowers

FIM vs Topping

Both techniques break apical dominance but with different results.

Topping:

• Removes entire growth tip
• Creates exactly 2 new main colas
• Predictable results
• Requires 3-7 days recovery
• More stressful

FIMing:

• Removes 75-80% of growth tip
• Creates 3-4+ new growth points
• Less predictable results
• Requires 2-5 days recovery
• Less stressful

Which to Choose:

Topping is better for creating symmetrical structure with predictable results. FIMing is better for creating many growth points quickly with less stress. Many growers prefer topping for main structure, then FIMing secondary branches to create additional bud sites.

How to FIM

FIMing requires precise cutting to achieve desired results.

Tools:

• Sharp, sterile scissors
• Magnifying glass (helpful for seeing growth tip clearly)
• Rubbing alcohol for sterilization

Procedure:

1. Sterilize tools with rubbing alcohol.

2. Identify newest growth tip. FIM the newest, youngest growth at the top of the plant or branch. The growth should be very small—about the size of a grain of rice.

3. Position scissors. Position scissors to remove 75-80% of the growth tip, leaving 20-25% intact. This is the critical part—removing too much turns FIM into topping, removing too little has no effect.

4. Make cut. Cut horizontally through the growth tip, removing the majority but leaving some tissue. The cut should be through the newest leaves, not the stem.

5. Monitor results. New growth should appear within 3-5 days. You should see 3-4 new growth points developing from the FIM site.

Tips:

• Use magnifying glass to see tiny growth tip clearly
• FIM when growth tip is very small (easier to leave 20-25% intact)
• Don’t worry about perfect precision—even imperfect FIMs often work well
• If you accidentally remove entire tip (topping), that’s fine—you’ll get 2 new colas instead of 3-4

Recovery:

FIMed plants typically recover faster than topped plants because more tissue remains. New growth should be visible within 2-5 days. Multiple new growth points develop over 1-2 weeks.

Figure 2: Low Stress Training progression showing 4-week development from initial tie-down to full bushy canopy

📂 Low-Stress Training (LST)

Low-Stress Training (LST) is the most versatile and beginner-friendly training technique. It involves gently bending and tying branches to manipulate plant shape without damaging tissue.

What is LST

LST uses soft ties to bend branches away from the center of the plant and secure them in desired positions. The main stem is bent horizontally, and side branches are spread outward to create an even, flat canopy. As the plant grows, ties are adjusted to maintain desired shape.

LST works by changing the orientation of branches relative to light. When the main stem is bent horizontally, side branches grow upward toward light, creating multiple vertical growth points instead of one dominant cola. This breaks apical dominance without cutting or damaging the plant.

Benefits of LST

LST offers numerous advantages that make it popular with growers of all experience levels.

Advantages:

• No recovery time: Plants continue growing normally. No stress or shock.
• Can be performed throughout growth: Start in early veg, continue through flowering stretch.
• Suitable for autoflowers: Since it doesn’t stress plants, LST works well with autoflowers that can’t handle HST.
• Beginner-friendly: Low risk of problems. Mistakes are easily corrected by adjusting ties.
• Improves light distribution: Creates even canopy where all bud sites receive equal light.
• Increases yields: Typically 20-30% yield increase from better light exposure.
• Controls plant height: Keeps plants short by training horizontally instead of vertically.
• Improves air circulation: Spreading branches improves airflow through canopy.

Disadvantages:

• Time-consuming: Requires regular adjustment (every few days) throughout growth.
• Ongoing maintenance: Ties must be monitored and adjusted as plant grows.
• Less dramatic than HST: Results develop gradually over weeks rather than quickly.
• Requires space: Plants spread horizontally, requiring more floor space.

How to Perform LST

LST is simple in concept but requires attention to detail for best results.

Materials:

• Soft plant ties: Use soft, flexible ties that won’t cut into stems. Options include soft garden wire, plant training wire, pipe cleaners, soft string, or purpose-made LST clips.
• Anchor points: Pot holes, stakes in soil, or ties around pot rim provide anchor points for securing ties.
• Optional: LST clips specifically designed for cannabis training make the process easier.

Basic LST Technique:

Step 1: Wait for Right Time

Begin LST when plant has 4-6 nodes and stems are flexible but strong enough to hold shape. Usually 3-4 weeks from seed. Don’t LST seedlings—they’re too fragile.

Step 2: Bend Main Stem

Gently bend the main stem away from center, creating a horizontal or angled orientation. Don’t bend too sharply—use gradual curve to avoid breaking stem. Secure main stem with soft tie attached to anchor point.

The goal is to bring the main growing tip lower than side branches. This breaks apical dominance and encourages side branches to grow upward.

Step 3: Spread Side Branches

As side branches grow, gently bend them outward away from center and secure with ties. Create a radial pattern with branches spreading evenly in all directions. This creates an even canopy with good light exposure to all growth points.

Step 4: Adjust Regularly

Check ties every 2-3 days. As plant grows, adjust ties to maintain desired shape. Move ties along branches as needed. Don’t let ties cut into growing stems—loosen or reposition if they’re too tight.

Step 5: Continue Throughout Vegetative Growth

Continue LST throughout vegetative stage. As plant grows, keep bending new growth to maintain flat, even canopy. The more consistent you are with adjustments, the better the results.

Step 6: Transition to Flowering

During flowering stretch (first 2-3 weeks of flowering), continue light LST to control height and shape. After stretch ends, stop adjusting ties but leave them in place to support heavy buds.

LST Throughout Growth

LST is an ongoing process that evolves as plants grow.

Weeks 1-2 (Seedling):

No training. Let seedlings establish.

Weeks 3-4 (Early Veg):

Begin LST. Bend main stem and start spreading branches. Adjust every 2-3 days.

Weeks 5-8 (Mid-Late Veg):

Continue LST aggressively. This is when most training occurs. Create even canopy with all growth points at similar height. Adjust daily if needed.

Weeks 1-3 of Flowering (Stretch):

Continue light LST to control height during stretch. Plants may double in height—use LST to keep canopy even.

Weeks 4+ of Flowering:

Stop adjusting ties. Leave them in place to support buds. Focus on maintaining optimal conditions for bud development.

Tips for Successful LST:

• Be gentle—stems should bend, not break
• Use gradual curves, not sharp bends
• Check ties regularly—don’t let them cut into stems
• Create even canopy with all growth points at similar height
• Combine with topping for even better results
• Be patient—results develop gradually over weeks
• Take photos to track progress

📂 Super Cropping

Super cropping is an advanced high-stress training technique that involves crushing internal stem fibers while keeping the outer skin intact, then bending the weakened stem to desired angle.

What is Super Cropping

Super cropping (also called stem crushing or soft tissue manipulation) involves gently squeezing and rolling a stem between fingers until internal fibers break and the stem becomes soft and pliable. The outer skin remains intact. The softened stem is then bent to desired angle (usually 90 degrees).

The damaged area forms a “knuckle” as it heals—a thickened, hardened section that becomes stronger than the original stem. This knuckle improves nutrient and water transport, potentially increasing yields.

Figure 3: Super cropping technique showing branch selection, pinching and rolling, and bending process

Benefits:

• Reduces plant height by bending tall branches
• Creates stronger stems (knuckles improve transport)
• Increases yields from improved nutrient flow
• Redirects growth hormones to lower branches
• Can be performed late in vegetative growth
• Fixes height issues before flowering

Drawbacks:

• High-stress technique requiring recovery time
• Risk of breaking stems if done incorrectly
• Not suitable for autoflowers
• Requires practice to master
• Can cause significant stress if overdone

When to Super Crop

Super cropping is typically performed in mid-late vegetative growth or during early flowering stretch.

Ideal Timing:

• Mid-late vegetative growth when stems are thick but still somewhat flexible
• During flowering stretch (first 2-3 weeks) to control height
• When branches are growing too tall or unevenly

Don’t Super Crop:

• Seedlings or young plants (stems too thin and fragile)
• During mid-late flowering (too stressful during bud development)
• Stressed, sick, or deficient plants
• Autoflowers (limited recovery time)

How to Super Crop

Super cropping requires gentle technique and practice.

Procedure:

Step 1: Select Branch

Choose branch that needs height reduction or redirection. Super cropping works best on branches 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter. Thinner branches break easily; thicker branches are difficult to soften.

Step 2: Select Location

Choose location on branch where you want bend. Typically 1/3 to 1/2 way down from growing tip. Don’t super crop too close to main stem or growing tip.

Step 3: Soften Stem

Gently squeeze stem between thumb and forefinger while rolling it back and forth. Apply steady, gentle pressure. You should feel internal fibers breaking and stem becoming soft and pliable. This takes 10-30 seconds of gentle squeezing and rolling.

The outer skin should remain intact. If you see skin tearing or breaking, stop immediately—you’re applying too much pressure.

Step 4: Bend Stem

Once stem is soft, gently bend it to desired angle (usually 90 degrees). The softened section should bend easily without breaking. Support the stem on both sides of the bend to prevent tearing.

Step 5: Support if Needed

If stem doesn’t hold position, support it with soft tie or stake until knuckle forms (3-7 days). Most stems hold position without support.

Step 6: Monitor Recovery

The bent section will droop for 24-48 hours as plant recovers. Within 3-7 days, a knuckle forms at the bend—a thickened, hardened section. The branch will resume upward growth from the bend.

Super Cropping Recovery Process

Days 1-2:

Branch droops from stress. This is normal. Don’t panic—the branch will recover.

Days 3-5:

Knuckle begins forming at bend site. Branch starts recovering and growing upward from bend.

Days 7-14:

Knuckle fully formed. Branch growing vigorously. Knuckle is thicker and stronger than original stem.

Troubleshooting:

Branch Broke: If outer skin tears or branch breaks, immediately support with tape or splint. Wrap damaged area with tape (electrical tape or grafting tape works well). Support branch with stake. Most breaks heal if supported properly.

Branch Won’t Hold Position: Support with soft tie until knuckle forms.

Severe Drooping: If entire plant droops severely after super cropping, you did too many branches at once. Only super crop 1-3 branches per session. Wait 7-10 days between sessions.

📂 Screen of Green (ScrOG)

Screen of Green (ScrOG) is a training method that uses a horizontal screen or net to create an extremely even canopy. Branches are woven through screen openings and trained horizontally to fill the screen before flowering.

What is ScrOG

ScrOG involves installing a horizontal screen 12-18 inches above plants during vegetative growth. As plants grow through the screen, branches are woven horizontally through screen openings instead of growing vertically. This creates a flat, even canopy that completely fills the screen before flowering begins.

During flowering, bud sites grow vertically through the screen, creating a uniform canopy of colas all at the same height and distance from lights. This maximizes light exposure and creates extremely uniform bud development.

Figure 4: ScrOG setup showing screen installation and top-down view of branches woven through screen

Benefits:

• Maximum yield potential: ScrOG typically produces highest yields of any training method (30-40% increase)
• Extremely even canopy: All bud sites at same height receive equal light
• Efficient space usage: Fills entire grow area with productive canopy
• Supports heavy buds: Screen provides structural support
• Works with fewer plants: Can ScrOG 1-4 plants to fill entire tent

Drawbacks:

• Labor-intensive: Requires daily training during vegetative growth
• Limits access: Hard to move plants once woven into screen
• Extends vegetative time: Need 6-8+ weeks veg to fill screen
• Not suitable for autoflowers: Requires long vegetative period
• Difficult to remove plants: Plants are woven into screen

ScrOG Setup

Proper screen setup is critical for successful ScrOG.

Screen Materials:

• Trellis netting: Flexible plastic netting with 4-6 inch squares. Most common choice. Inexpensive and easy to install.
• Wire mesh: Rigid wire mesh or welded wire. More durable than netting. Harder to install.
• String grid: String or wire tied in grid pattern. Customizable spacing. Time-consuming to set up.

Screen Height:

Install screen 12-18 inches above pot rims. Lower screens (12-14 inches) work for indica-dominant strains. Higher screens (16-18 inches) work for sativa-dominant strains.

Screen should be high enough that you can reach under to water and maintain plants, but low enough that plants fill screen before flowering.

Screen Spacing:

Use 4-6 inch squares. Smaller squares (4 inches) provide more training control. Larger squares (6 inches) are easier to work with but provide less control.

Installation:

Attach screen to tent frame, PVC frame, or wooden frame. Screen must be taut and level. Sagging screen doesn’t provide adequate support.

For grow tents, attach netting to tent frame with zip ties or hooks. For custom setups, build PVC or wood frame to support screen.

Training Through Screen

ScrOG training is an ongoing process throughout vegetative growth.

Vegetative Training:

Weeks 1-3: Grow plants normally until they reach screen height. Top or FIM plants before they reach screen to create multiple growth points.

Weeks 4-8+: As branches grow through screen, gently bend them horizontally and weave through adjacent screen openings. The goal is to spread growth horizontally across screen instead of vertically through it.

Weave branches in different directions to fill screen evenly. Check daily and adjust as needed. Continue vegetative growth until screen is 70-80% filled.

Transition to Flowering:

When screen is 70-80% filled, switch to flowering. Don’t wait for 100% fill—plants stretch during early flowering and will fill remaining space.

Early Flowering (Weeks 1-3):

Continue light training during stretch. Tuck new growth under screen to maintain even canopy. After stretch ends (week 3-4), stop training. Let bud sites grow vertically through screen.

Mid-Late Flowering:

Stop all training. Bud sites grow vertically through screen. Screen provides support for heavy buds. Focus on maintaining optimal conditions for bud development.

ScrOG Management

Defoliation:

ScrOG requires aggressive defoliation. Remove fan leaves that block light to lower bud sites. Perform major defoliation at start of flowering and again at week 3 of flowering.

Lollipopping:

Remove all growth below screen. Growth below screen receives little light and produces popcorn buds. Removing it redirects energy to top canopy.

Watering:

Watering is challenging with ScrOG since plants can’t be moved. Use a watering wand or drip system to water plants in place. Ensure good drainage—plants sitting in runoff develop root problems.

Plant Count:

ScrOG works with 1-4 plants per 4×4 tent. Fewer plants require longer vegetative time to fill screen. More plants fill screen faster but may become overcrowded.

• 1 plant: 8-10 weeks veg
• 2 plants: 6-8 weeks veg
• 4 plants: 4-6 weeks veg

📂 Sea of Green (SOG)

Sea of Green (SOG) is a training method that uses many small plants flowered early to create a canopy of single main colas. Instead of training individual plants, SOG relies on plant density to fill space.

What is SOG

SOG involves growing many small plants (9-16 per square meter) with minimal vegetative time (2-4 weeks) before flowering. Plants are flowered when small, producing single main colas with minimal side branching. The dense planting creates a “sea” of colas that fills the canopy.

SOG is the opposite of ScrOG—instead of training few plants extensively, SOG uses many plants with minimal training. The result is similar: an even canopy of uniformly-sized colas.

Benefits:

• Fast turnaround: Short vegetative time (2-4 weeks) means faster harvests
• Consistent results: Many small plants average out variations
• Efficient use of space: Dense planting fills canopy quickly
• Simple training: Minimal or no training required
• Works with clones: Perfect for clone-based growing
• Good for small spaces: Short plants fit in low-height spaces

Drawbacks:

• Requires many plants: 9-16+ plants per square meter
• Legal concerns: High plant count may exceed legal limits
• More maintenance: More plants means more watering, feeding, transplanting
• Requires clones or many seeds: Need many identical plants
• Lower yield per plant: Each plant produces less (but total yield similar to other methods)

SOG vs ScrOG

Both methods create even canopies but use opposite approaches.

SOG:

• Many small plants (9-16 per m²)
• Short vegetative time (2-4 weeks)
• Minimal training
• Fast turnaround
• High plant count
• Works with clones

ScrOG:

• Few large plants (1-4 per m²)
• Long vegetative time (6-8+ weeks)
• Intensive training
• Slower turnaround
• Low plant count
• Works with seeds or clones

Which to Choose:

SOG is better for growers with access to many clones, legal high plant counts, and desire for fast turnaround. ScrOG is better for growers with plant count limits, growing from seed, and willing to invest time in training.

SOG Setup and Timing

Plant Spacing:

Space plants 6-12 inches apart in grid pattern. Closer spacing (6-8 inches) creates denser canopy but may have airflow issues. Wider spacing (10-12 inches) improves airflow but may leave gaps.

Typical density: 9-16 plants per square meter (4×4 ft area).

Container Size:

Use small containers (1-2 gallon) since plants remain small. Smaller containers save space and medium.

Vegetative Time:

Vegetate plants for only 2-4 weeks before flowering. The goal is small plants with single main cola. Longer veg creates larger plants that crowd each other.

Flowering:

Flower when plants are 8-12 inches tall. During flowering stretch, plants reach 16-24 inches—the ideal height for SOG.

Training:

Minimal training required. Some growers top once to create two main colas per plant. Most SOG growers don’t train at all—just flower small plants.

Perform lollipopping to remove lower growth. This focuses energy on main cola.

Strain Selection:

SOG works best with indica-dominant strains that stay short and produce dense main colas. Sativa-dominant strains stretch too much for SOG.

Use clones for consistency. All plants should be the same strain, same size, and flower at THE same rate.

📂 Mainlining (Manifolding)

Mainlining, also called manifolding, is an advanced training technique that creates a symmetrical plant structure with multiple main colas of equal size branching from a central hub.

What is Mainlining

Mainlining combines topping and LST to create a symmetrical manifold structure. The plant is topped multiple times in a specific pattern to create 8 (or 16) main colas that branch symmetrically from a central hub. All branches are equal length, ensuring uniform growth and bud development.

The technique is called mainlining because it creates main “lines” (branches) of equal length that transport nutrients and water equally to all colas. This eliminates competition between branches and creates perfectly uniform colas.

Figure 5: Mainlining structure showing symmetrical 8-cola manifold with equal branch lengths and hub structure

Benefits:

• Perfectly symmetrical structure: All colas identical size
• Maximum uniformity: Equal nutrient distribution to all colas
• Impressive appearance: Symmetrical structure is visually striking
• Efficient training: Once structure is built, minimal maintenance needed
• Excellent light distribution: Even canopy with all colas at same height
• Strong structure: Thick main branches support heavy buds

Drawbacks:

• Time-consuming: Requires 6-8+ weeks vegetative time to build structure
• Complex technique: Requires understanding of plant structure
• Multiple recovery periods: Each topping requires recovery time
• Not suitable for autoflowers: Requires long vegetative period
• Requires healthy plants: Stressed plants don’t recover well from multiple toppings

Building the Manifold

Mainlining follows specific steps to create a symmetrical structure.

Step 1: First Topping (Week 3-4)

Top plant above 3rd node. Remove all growth below the 3rd node, leaving only the two branches at 3rd node. This creates the hub—the central point where all branches originate.

Recovery: 7-10 days.

Step 2: LST the Two Branches (Week 4-5)

Bend the two branches horizontally in opposite directions (180 degrees apart). Secure with ties. This creates the first level of manifold.

Let branches grow until they have 3-4 nodes.

Step 3: Second Topping (Week 5-6)

Top both branches above their 3rd or 4th node. This creates four branches (two from each original branch).

Recovery: 7-10 days.

Step 4: LST the Four Branches (Week 6-7)

Bend the four branches outward in symmetrical pattern (90 degrees apart—north, south, east, west). Secure with ties.

Let branches grow until they have 3-4 nodes.

Step 5: Third Topping (Optional, Week 7-8)

Top all four branches to create eight branches. This creates the classic 8-cola manifold.

For 16-cola manifold, top again after recovery.

Recovery: 7-10 days.

Step 6: LST the Eight Branches (Week 8-9)

Bend all eight branches outward in symmetrical pattern (45 degrees apart). Secure with ties. Ensure all branch tips are at same height.

Step 7: Final Adjustments (Week 9-10)

Continue LST to maintain even canopy. All eight colas should be at same height. Remove any side branching to maintain clean manifold structure.

Step 8: Flower (Week 10+)

Switch to flowering when manifold structure is complete and all colas are at same height.

Mainlining Timeline

Week 3-4: First topping, create hub Week 4-5: LST two branches Week 5-6: Second topping (creates 4 branches) Week 6-7: LST four branches Week 7-8: Third topping (creates 8 branches) Week 8-9: LST eight branches Week 9-10: Final adjustments Week 10+: Switch to flowering

Total vegetative time: 10-12 weeks for 8-cola manifold.

Tips:

• Be patient—mainlining takes time but results are worth it
• Maintain perfect symmetry—all branches should be equal length
• Remove all side branching to maintain clean structure
• Keep detailed notes and photos to track progress
• Combine with ScrOG for maximum yields

📂 Lollipopping

Lollipopping is a pruning technique that removes all lower growth, leaving only top canopy. The result is a plant that looks like a lollipop—bare stem with growth only at the top.

What is Lollipopping

Lollipopping involves removing all branches, leaves, and bud sites from the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant. This includes everything below the canopy that receives little light. By removing lower growth, the plant redirects energy to top canopy where buds receive adequate light.

Lower growth in dense canopies receives little light and produces small, airy “popcorn” buds of low quality. These buds aren’t worth the energy plants invest in them. Removing them redirects that energy to top canopy, increasing size and density of top buds.

Benefits:

• Increases top bud size: Energy redirected to top canopy
• Improves bud quality: Eliminates low-quality popcorn buds
• Improves air circulation: Removing lower growth improves airflow
• Reduces mold risk: Better airflow and less dense foliage
• Easier harvesting: All buds are top-quality, no sorting needed
• Cleaner appearance: Professional, manicured look

Drawbacks:

• Reduces total bud count: Fewer buds overall (but higher quality)
• Stressful if overdone: Removing too much foliage stresses plants
• Timing is critical: Done at wrong time can reduce yields

When and How to Lollipop

Timing is critical for successful lollipopping.

Timing:

Option 1: Late Vegetative (1 week before flowering)

Perform lollipopping 1 week before switching to flowering. This gives plants time to recover before flowering stress. Remove lower 1/3 of plant.

Option 2: Early Flowering (End of Week 3)

Perform lollipopping at end of flowering stretch (week 3 of flowering). At this point, you can clearly see which growth will be in canopy and which will be shaded. Remove everything below canopy.

Option 3: Both

Many growers lollipop twice—once before flowering and again at end of stretch. First lollipopping removes obvious lower growth. Second removes anything that ended up below canopy after stretch.

How Much to Remove:

Remove lower 1/3 to 1/2 of plant. This includes:

• All branches below canopy
• All leaves below canopy
• All small bud sites that won’t receive adequate light

Be conservative if unsure. It’s better to remove too little than too much. You can always remove more later.

Procedure:

1. Identify canopy line. Look at plant from side. Identify where canopy begins—the point where growth receives adequate light.

2. Remove branches. Use clean, sharp scissors to remove all branches below canopy line. Cut branches flush with main stem.

3. Remove leaves. Remove all fan leaves below canopy line.

4. Remove small bud sites. Remove any small bud sites on lower portions of remaining branches.

5. Step back and assess. Plant should have bare lower stem with all growth in top canopy.

Tips:

• Don’t lollipop stressed or sick plants
• Be conservative—you can always remove more later
• Combine with defoliation for maximum light penetration
• Don’t lollipop during mid-late flowering (too stressful)

📂 Defoliation

Defoliation is the strategic removal of fan leaves to improve light penetration and air circulation. When done correctly, defoliation increases yields by allowing light to reach more bud sites.

Strategic Defoliation

Defoliation is controversial—some growers swear by it, others avoid it entirely. The key is strategic removal of specific leaves, not indiscriminate stripping of foliage.

Why Defoliate:

Fan leaves block light to lower bud sites. In dense canopies, lower buds receive little light and develop poorly. Removing fan leaves that block bud sites allows light to penetrate deeper into canopy, improving bud development throughout the plant.

Defoliation also improves air circulation, reducing humidity and mold risk. Better airflow strengthens stems and improves CO2 distribution.

Why Not to Defoliate:

Fan leaves are the plant’s solar panels—they produce energy through photosynthesis. Removing leaves reduces photosynthetic capacity. Excessive defoliation stresses plants and can reduce yields.

The key is balance—remove enough leaves to improve light penetration without removing so many that photosynthesis is impaired.

When to Defoliate

Timing and moderation are critical for successful defoliation.

Vegetative Defoliation:

Light defoliation can be performed throughout vegetative growth. Remove only leaves that block light to lower growth or create airflow problems. Don’t remove more than 10-20% of leaves at once.

Pre-Flowering Defoliation:

Perform moderate defoliation 1 week before switching to flowering. Remove leaves that will block light to bud sites. This is a good time for more aggressive defoliation since plants have time to recover before flowering.

Early Flowering Defoliation:

The most important defoliation occurs at the end of flowering stretch (week 3 of flowering). At this point, you can clearly see bud sites and which leaves block them. Remove leaves that block bud sites or create dense areas with poor airflow.

This is the most aggressive defoliation—remove 20-40% of leaves. Focus on large fan leaves in canopy that block multiple bud sites.

Mid-Late Flowering:

Avoid defoliation after week 4 of flowering. Plants are focused on bud development and shouldn’t be stressed. Only remove leaves that are dead, dying, or touching buds (mold risk).

How Much to Remove

Conservative Approach (Beginners):

Remove only leaves that:

• Block light to bud sites
• Create dense areas with poor airflow
• Are dead, dying, or diseased
• Touch other leaves or buds (mold risk)

Don’t remove more than 10-20% of leaves at once.

Moderate Approach (Experienced):

Remove leaves that:

• Block light to multiple bud sites
• Create dense canopy with poor light penetration
• Contribute to humidity problems

Remove 20-40% of leaves during major defoliation sessions (pre-flower and week 3 of flower).

Aggressive Approach (Advanced):

Some advanced growers remove 40-60% of leaves during major defoliation. This is risky and should only be attempted by experienced growers with healthy, vigorous plants.

What to Remove:

• Large fan leaves in canopy that block multiple bud sites
• Leaves pointing inward toward center of plant
• Leaves creating dense areas with poor airflow
• Lower leaves that receive little light
• Dead, dying, or diseased leaves

What to Keep:

• Leaves directly attached to bud sites (sugar leaves)
• Healthy leaves receiving direct light
• Leaves on outer edges of canopy
• Young, new growth

Technique:

Use clean, sharp scissors. Cut leaf stem close to branch without damaging branch. Don’t tear or rip leaves—make clean cuts.

Remove leaves gradually over 30-60 minutes. Step back frequently to assess results. It’s easy to remove too much—be conservative.

📂 Combining Cannabis Training Techniques

Most experienced growers combine multiple training techniques for maximum results. Combining techniques creates optimal canopy structure and light distribution.

Common Combinations:

Topping + LST + Defoliation:

The most popular combination. Top once or twice to create 4-8 main colas. Use LST throughout veg to spread branches and create even canopy. Defoliate before flowering and at week 3 of flowering.

Results: Even canopy with multiple large colas. 25-35% yield increase. Suitable for most growers.

Mainlining + Lollipopping + Defoliation:

Advanced combination. Build 8-cola manifold through mainlining. Lollipop to remove all lower growth. Defoliate to improve light penetration.

Results: Perfectly symmetrical structure with 8 identical large colas. 30-40% yield increase. Requires 10-12 weeks veg.

ScrOG + Topping + Lollipopping + Defoliation:

Maximum yield combination. Top to create multiple growth points. Train through ScrOG screen. Lollipop everything below screen. Aggressive defoliation for light penetration.

Results: Maximum yield potential. 35-45% yield increase. Labor-intensive. Requires 8-10 weeks veg.

SOG + Lollipopping:

Simple, fast combination. Grow many small plants with minimal veg. Lollipop to focus energy on main cola.

Results: Fast turnaround (6-8 weeks veg). Consistent results. Requires many plants.

Super Cropping + LST:

Good for height control. Use super cropping to reduce height of tall branches. Use LST to spread branches and create even canopy.

Results: Excellent height control. Good for mixed-height canopies. 20-30% yield increase.

Planning Your Approach:

Consider these factors when choosing techniques:

• Experience level: Beginners should start with LST only. Add topping once comfortable. Advanced techniques require experience.
• Plant count limits: Low plant count? Use ScrOG or mainlining. High plant count allowed? Consider SOG.
• Vegetative time available: Long veg time? Use ScrOG or mainlining. Short veg? Use SOG or simple topping + LST.
• Strain characteristics: Indica-dominant strains respond well to all techniques. Sativa-dominant strains may require aggressive training to control height.
• Space limitations: Low height? Use LST and super cropping for height control. Limited floor space? Use vertical training.

📂 Timing and Recovery

Proper timing and allowing adequate recovery are critical for successful training.

Growth Stage Considerations

Different growth stages have different training requirements and tolerances.

Seedling Stage (Weeks 0-2):

Training: None. Don’t train seedlings.

Focus: Let seedlings establish root systems and develop first true leaves. Seedlings are too fragile for training.

Early Vegetative Stage (Weeks 2-4):

Training: Begin LST when plants have 4-6 nodes. Perform first topping when plants have 4-6 nodes and are growing vigorously.

Focus: Establish basic plant structure. This is the ideal time for first high-stress training (topping or FIMing).

Mid Vegetative Stage (Weeks 4-6):

Training: Continue LST aggressively. Perform second topping if desired. Begin super cropping if needed. Install ScrOG screen if using.

Focus: Build canopy structure. This is when most training occurs. Plants are vigorous and recover quickly.

Late Vegetative Stage (Weeks 6-8+):

Training: Continue LST. Perform final topping. Super crop tall branches. Train through ScrOG screen. Perform pre-flower lollipopping and defoliation.

Focus: Finalize canopy structure. Stop high-stress training 1-2 weeks before flowering.

Transition to Flowering (1-2 weeks before flip):

Training: Stop all high-stress training. Continue light LST if needed. Perform pre-flower lollipopping and defoliation.

Focus: Allow plants to recover before flowering stress.

Early Flowering – Stretch (Weeks 1-3):

Training: Continue light LST to control height during stretch. Perform major defoliation at end of week 3. Lollipop if not done pre-flower.

Focus: Control height and finalize canopy structure. Plants may double in height during stretch.

Mid Flowering (Weeks 4-6):

Training: Stop all training. Only remove dead, dying, or diseased leaves.

Focus: Maintain optimal conditions for bud development. Don’t stress plants.

Late Flowering (Weeks 7-harvest):

Training: None. Don’t touch plants except for harvest.

Focus: Final bud development and maturation.

Recovery Time

Plants need time to recover after high-stress training.

Topping Recovery: 3-7 days. Growth slows for 1-2 days, then resumes. New growth visible within 3-5 days.

FIMing Recovery: 2-5 days. Faster recovery than topping since more tissue remains.

Super Cropping Recovery: 3-7 days. Knuckle forms within 7 days. Branch resumes growth within 3-5 days.

LST Recovery: No recovery needed. Plants continue growing normally.

Defoliation Recovery: 2-5 days depending on amount removed. Light defoliation (10-20% of leaves) requires minimal recovery. Heavy defoliation (40%+) may slow growth for 5-7 days.

Factors Affecting Recovery:

• Plant health: Healthy, vigorous plants recover faster than stressed plants
• Environmental conditions: Optimal temperature, humidity, and light speed recovery
• Nutrition: Well-fed plants recover faster than deficient plants
• Genetics: Some strains recover faster than others
• Age: Young plants in vegetative growth recover faster than older plants

Waiting Between Training Sessions:

Allow adequate recovery between high-stress training sessions. Don’t stack multiple stresses—this can shock plants and slow growth significantly.

Minimum wait times:

• Between toppings: 7-14 days
• Between super cropping sessions: 7-10 days
• After topping before super cropping: 7 days
• After defoliation before other training: 3-5 days

Signs of Stress

Monitor plants for stress signs after training.

Normal Recovery Signs:

• Slight drooping for 24-48 hours after HST
• Slowed growth for 1-3 days
• New growth visible within 3-7 days
• Plant resumes vigorous growth within 7-10 days

Problem Signs:

• Severe drooping lasting more than 48 hours
• Yellowing or browning of leaves
• No new growth after 7-10 days
• Wilting despite adequate water
• Brown or black spots at cut sites (infection)

If Problems Occur:

• Stop all training immediately
• Ensure optimal environmental conditions (70-80°F, 50-60% humidity)
• Check for deficiencies or pests
• Reduce light intensity if plants are drooping
• Ensure adequate but not excessive watering
• Apply light feeding if plants are deficient
• Be patient—most plants recover given time

📂 Common Training Mistakes

Even experienced growers make mistakes. Understanding common pitfalls helps you avoid them.

Training Too Early:

Mistake: Training seedlings or plants with fewer than 4 nodes.

Problem: Young plants are too fragile and may not recover. Training too early can stunt growth or kill plants.

Solution: Wait until plants have at least 4-6 nodes and are growing vigorously before training.

Training Too Late:

Mistake: Performing high-stress training during flowering or too close to flowering.

Problem: Plants don’t have time to recover before flowering stress. This reduces yields instead of increasing them.

Solution: Stop all high-stress training at least 1-2 weeks before flowering. Only light LST during early flowering.

Removing Too Much at Once:

Mistake: Aggressive defoliation or lollipopping that removes 50%+ of plant mass.

Problem: Excessive removal shocks plants and reduces photosynthetic capacity. Plants may take weeks to recover or may not recover fully.

Solution: Be conservative. Remove 10-20% at a time. Wait 7-10 days before removing more. It’s better to remove too little than too much.

Not Allowing Recovery Time:

Mistake: Stacking multiple high-stress techniques without recovery time (e.g., topping and super cropping same day).

Problem: Multiple stresses shock plants. Growth stops or slows dramatically. Plants may not recover fully.

Solution: Allow 7-10 days recovery between high-stress training sessions. Only perform one type of HST at a time.

Training Stressed or Sick Plants:

Mistake: Training plants that are already stressed from deficiencies, pests, or environmental problems.

Problem: Stressed plants can’t handle additional training stress. Training may kill already-weakened plants.

Solution: Only train healthy, vigorous plants. Fix any problems before training.

Breaking Stems:

Mistake: Bending stems too sharply during LST or super cropping, causing breaks.

Problem: Broken stems reduce yields from that branch. Severe breaks may kill the branch.

Solution: Be gentle. Use gradual bends, not sharp angles. For super cropping, soften stem adequately before bending. If breaks occur, support with tape and stakes—most breaks heal if supported.

Inconsistent LST:

Mistake: Starting LST then forgetting to adjust ties regularly.

Problem: Ties cut into growing stems, damaging them. Plant grows unevenly. LST becomes ineffective.

Solution: Check and adjust ties every 2-3 days throughout vegetative growth. Set reminders if needed.

Training Autoflowers with HST:

Mistake: Topping, FIMing, or super cropping autoflowers.

Problem: Autoflowers have limited vegetative time (3-4 weeks). They don’t have time to recover from HST. Training reduces yields instead of increasing them.

Solution: Only use LST on autoflowers. No topping, FIMing, or super cropping.

Not Sterilizing Tools:

Mistake: Using dirty scissors or tools for topping or pruning.

Problem: Dirty tools introduce pathogens that cause infections. Infections can kill plants.

Solution: Sterilize all cutting tools with rubbing alcohol before use.

📂 Strain Considerations

Different strains respond differently to training. Understanding strain characteristics helps you choose appropriate techniques.

Indica-Dominant Strains:

Characteristics: Short, bushy growth. Strong lateral branching. Short internodal spacing. Limited stretch during flowering.

Training Response: Respond well to all training techniques. Naturally bushy structure makes them easy to train. Limited stretch means less height control needed.

Recommended Techniques: Topping + LST, ScrOG, SOG, mainlining. All techniques work well with indicas.

Sativa-Dominant Strains:

Characteristics: Tall, stretchy growth. Less lateral branching. Long internodal spacing. Significant stretch during flowering (2-3x height).

Training Response: Require aggressive training to control height. Respond well to training but need more work than indicas. Stretch during flowering can be challenging.

Recommended Techniques: Topping (multiple times) + LST + super cropping. Aggressive height control essential. ScrOG works well but requires large screen. Avoid SOG (plants get too tall).

Hybrid Strains:

Characteristics: Combination of indica and sativa traits. Growth patterns vary by genetics.

Training Response: Generally respond well to all techniques. Specific response depends on indica/sativa ratio.

Recommended Techniques: All techniques work. Choose based on specific strain characteristics.

Autoflowering Strains:

Characteristics: Automatic flowering (not photoperiod-dependent). Limited vegetative time (3-4 weeks). Smaller overall size.

Training Response: Limited training tolerance due to short vegetative period. Can’t recover from HST in time.

Recommended Techniques: LST only. Start early (week 2-3). Be gentle. No topping, FIMing, or super cropping. Light defoliation okay.

Strain-Specific Research:

Research specific strains before training. Breeder descriptions often include training recommendations. Online grow journals show how strains respond to different techniques.

Some strains are naturally resistant to training or have unusual growth patterns. Knowing strain characteristics helps you plan appropriate training strategy.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

📂 References

[1] Chandra, S., Lata, H., Khan, I. A., & ElSohly, M. A. (2017). Cannabis sativa L.: Botany and Horticulture. In Cannabis sativa L. – Botany and Biotechnology (pp. 79-100). Springer.

[2] Caplan, D., Dixon, M., & Zheng, Y. (2017). Optimal rate of organic fertilizer during the vegetative-stage for cannabis grown in two coir-based substrates. HortScience, 52(9), 1307-1312.

[3] Potter, D. J., & Duncombe, P. (2012). The effect of electrical lighting power and irradiance on indoor-grown cannabis potency and yield. Journal of Forensic Sciences, 57(3), 618-622.

[4] Shiponi, S., & Bernstein, N. (2021). The highs and lows of P supply in medical cannabis: Effects on cannabinoids, the ionome, and morpho-physiology. Frontiers in Plant Science, 12, 657323.

[5] Westmoreland, F. M., & Bugbee, B. (2022). Cannabis lighting: Decreasing blue photon fraction increases yield but efficacy is more important for cost effective production of cannabinoids. PLOS ONE, 17(3), e0265535.

[6] Saloner, A., & Bernstein, N. (2022). Effect of potassium (K) supply on cannabinoids, terpenoids and plant function in medical cannabis. Agronomy, 12(5), 1242.

This guide is for educational purposes only. Always check local laws regarding cannabis cultivation before starting to grow.